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	<title>Comments on: Why Are Dogs Attracted to Human Beings?</title>
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		<title>By: Heather</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1758</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:28:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1758</guid>
		<description>If my arm isn&#039;t detachable it won&#039;t be for lack of trying! Right now a very loud rubber chicken is the bite object, we are doing pretty well.  Happy pushes for food with me and is reluctant with my husband. But Happy is also more grabby with me during play and focuses only on the chicken (no mouthiness) with my husband.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If my arm isn&#8217;t detachable it won&#8217;t be for lack of trying! Right now a very loud rubber chicken is the bite object, we are doing pretty well.  Happy pushes for food with me and is reluctant with my husband. But Happy is also more grabby with me during play and focuses only on the chicken (no mouthiness) with my husband.</p>
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		<title>By: kbehan</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1755</link>
		<dc:creator>kbehan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Feb 2010 16:40:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1755</guid>
		<description>Don&#039;t use your arm as bite object because the bite object has to be &quot;objectifiable&quot; so that it can serve as an emotional midpoint, around which you and your dog can organize sociably. It will prove hard to detach your arm so that it can be such an object. The example of how important it is to objectify the midpoint is to imagine an NFL game with 22 steroid-addled highly aggressive young men that are encouraged to run into each other, block, tackle and head slap, but then there&#039;s no ball as objectified midpoint? Remarkably, the ball allows these men to self-organize and there is in the vast majority of cases no fighting, unlike other sports with less physical contact. So always objectify the midpoint so that your dog can self-organize with you as access-to-the-positive.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t use your arm as bite object because the bite object has to be &#8220;objectifiable&#8221; so that it can serve as an emotional midpoint, around which you and your dog can organize sociably. It will prove hard to detach your arm so that it can be such an object. The example of how important it is to objectify the midpoint is to imagine an NFL game with 22 steroid-addled highly aggressive young men that are encouraged to run into each other, block, tackle and head slap, but then there&#8217;s no ball as objectified midpoint? Remarkably, the ball allows these men to self-organize and there is in the vast majority of cases no fighting, unlike other sports with less physical contact. So always objectify the midpoint so that your dog can self-organize with you as access-to-the-positive.</p>
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		<title>By: christine randolph</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1725</link>
		<dc:creator>christine randolph</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Feb 2010 17:05:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1725</guid>
		<description>so mommy goes in the &quot;prison&quot; for her time out ! 

that is completely also a good deal,i.e.some trainers say to leave the room momentarily if it is indoors. 

i guess energetically it is exactly the same, a momentary &quot;absence of rewards&quot;, where the reward is &quot;time with mom&quot; ....

i do not have any problems with my dogs biting unless i try to clip nails of my border collie. she is awfully defensive about that ! it is not easy to clip a nail while wearing a tough glove....ha yes i do not talk often about problems with my dogs, this one is a real problem !</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>so mommy goes in the &#8220;prison&#8221; for her time out ! </p>
<p>that is completely also a good deal,i.e.some trainers say to leave the room momentarily if it is indoors. </p>
<p>i guess energetically it is exactly the same, a momentary &#8220;absence of rewards&#8221;, where the reward is &#8220;time with mom&#8221; &#8230;.</p>
<p>i do not have any problems with my dogs biting unless i try to clip nails of my border collie. she is awfully defensive about that ! it is not easy to clip a nail while wearing a tough glove&#8230;.ha yes i do not talk often about problems with my dogs, this one is a real problem !</p>
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		<title>By: Heather</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1713</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:35:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1713</guid>
		<description>I do understand a dog being in drive and not wanting to rebuff him at that time...but as another example of what I&#039;m referring to when I say &quot;biting&quot; - today I slipped on the ice, fell down 4 stairs, and before I could get up Happy pounced on me and grabbed my pony tail, arm, hand...having the best time I suppose thinking I was inviting him to wrestle.  That seems normal, I&#039;m not mad or anything, in fact it was pretty funny, but I sit up getting my bearings and I am body checked down again...it seemed appropriate at that point to say &#039;ow&#039;, get up, and go behind the gate.  It didn&#039;t seem that his enthusiasm was dampened, he sat down and I came out and we went for a nice walk.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I do understand a dog being in drive and not wanting to rebuff him at that time&#8230;but as another example of what I&#8217;m referring to when I say &#8220;biting&#8221; &#8211; today I slipped on the ice, fell down 4 stairs, and before I could get up Happy pounced on me and grabbed my pony tail, arm, hand&#8230;having the best time I suppose thinking I was inviting him to wrestle.  That seems normal, I&#8217;m not mad or anything, in fact it was pretty funny, but I sit up getting my bearings and I am body checked down again&#8230;it seemed appropriate at that point to say &#8216;ow&#8217;, get up, and go behind the gate.  It didn&#8217;t seem that his enthusiasm was dampened, he sat down and I came out and we went for a nice walk.</p>
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		<title>By: Heather</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1712</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:25:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1712</guid>
		<description>My down coat serves as a bite sleeve currently...I would certainly get a bite sleeve but I am not sure how to use one per NDT ideas (or any ideas, but I wonder if the traditional &quot;protection&quot; training advice would be applicable or send me down the wrong path).  Suggestions welcome!

I guess I am sounding really focused on biting, it actually seems like a normal thing that he is doing, it is not excessive, I just struggle with what to do in those moments to keep the &quot;energy flowing with what Kevin calls the &#039;group&#039;, vs. entering a struggle with the dog&quot; is the best way to put it.  I have spoken with other Newfoundland owners (and watched a lot of youtube Newf videos!), and he is certainly just being a Newfoundland puppy.  There was a time when he was about 6 months when he would get overstimulated/confused and jump and grab, and I was trying the more confrontational techniques to stop that...it didn&#039;t take long at all to realize that those old wives&#039; tale suggestions were not appropriate or effective - that&#039;s when I discovered NDT and got some real insight into that issue.  That&#039;s not really happening anymore, it doesn&#039;t seem like overload, at least to me, he is completely engaged with me, just hanging onto me sometimes.  The couch day was different - really he shouldn&#039;t have the freedom yet because he is not trained and it is inviting a struggle.  I am hoping Kevin&#039;s &quot;dogs in their place&quot; article gives some direction too.

I couldn&#039;t give him a time-out if I wanted to, but if he gets too rough saying &#039;ow&#039; and removing myself behind a gate for a moment, not being mad but just matter-of-fact, seems like appropriate feedback.  I am probably wrong, though, because it seems like whatever my intuition says, it is the opposite that is the right thing to do.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My down coat serves as a bite sleeve currently&#8230;I would certainly get a bite sleeve but I am not sure how to use one per NDT ideas (or any ideas, but I wonder if the traditional &#8220;protection&#8221; training advice would be applicable or send me down the wrong path).  Suggestions welcome!</p>
<p>I guess I am sounding really focused on biting, it actually seems like a normal thing that he is doing, it is not excessive, I just struggle with what to do in those moments to keep the &#8220;energy flowing with what Kevin calls the &#8216;group&#8217;, vs. entering a struggle with the dog&#8221; is the best way to put it.  I have spoken with other Newfoundland owners (and watched a lot of youtube Newf videos!), and he is certainly just being a Newfoundland puppy.  There was a time when he was about 6 months when he would get overstimulated/confused and jump and grab, and I was trying the more confrontational techniques to stop that&#8230;it didn&#8217;t take long at all to realize that those old wives&#8217; tale suggestions were not appropriate or effective &#8211; that&#8217;s when I discovered NDT and got some real insight into that issue.  That&#8217;s not really happening anymore, it doesn&#8217;t seem like overload, at least to me, he is completely engaged with me, just hanging onto me sometimes.  The couch day was different &#8211; really he shouldn&#8217;t have the freedom yet because he is not trained and it is inviting a struggle.  I am hoping Kevin&#8217;s &#8220;dogs in their place&#8221; article gives some direction too.</p>
<p>I couldn&#8217;t give him a time-out if I wanted to, but if he gets too rough saying &#8216;ow&#8217; and removing myself behind a gate for a moment, not being mad but just matter-of-fact, seems like appropriate feedback.  I am probably wrong, though, because it seems like whatever my intuition says, it is the opposite that is the right thing to do.</p>
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		<title>By: Burl</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1711</link>
		<dc:creator>Burl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:42:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1711</guid>
		<description>And I agree that time-out is not right for a dog.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>And I agree that time-out is not right for a dog.</p>
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		<title>By: Burl</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1710</link>
		<dc:creator>Burl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:41:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1710</guid>
		<description>I sure would not use that same crate to represent the dog&#039;s safe place. 

My den cannot also be my prison cell.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I sure would not use that same crate to represent the dog&#8217;s safe place. </p>
<p>My den cannot also be my prison cell.</p>
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		<title>By: Donnie_O</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1709</link>
		<dc:creator>Donnie_O</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:42:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1709</guid>
		<description>&quot;some trainers think that if a dog commences unwanted behaviour, i.e.barking or in your case, biting your arm so that you get bruises… it is ok to put him in the crate for a time-out, without saying anything. each time he offers this behaviour. this seems to signal to the dog, that this behaviour will not lead to more “mom” time and could extinguish it…&quot;

That&#039;s what traditional learning theory says, but I think that the idea of a &quot;time out&quot; is lost on a dog.  You can send a child to their room to think about what they&#039;ve done because they have a sense of past and future.  &quot;Time out&quot; is a pretty abstract concept: the idea that being sent to a certain place = punishment requires one to understand that a)their actions were wrong b)the place they&#039;ve been sent to is a consequence of their actions.  I don&#039;t think that dogs can understand either of those ideas.  If you were to send a dog to time out for mouthing, i think that the only lesson she&#039;s learning is that she can&#039;t interact with her handler in those moments where she&#039;s in drive.  Also, the unresolved drive to make contact turns into stress.

Heather, have you considered getting a bite sleeve as an intermediate step to channeling his bite into a tug toy?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;some trainers think that if a dog commences unwanted behaviour, i.e.barking or in your case, biting your arm so that you get bruises… it is ok to put him in the crate for a time-out, without saying anything. each time he offers this behaviour. this seems to signal to the dog, that this behaviour will not lead to more “mom” time and could extinguish it…&#8221;</p>
<p>That&#8217;s what traditional learning theory says, but I think that the idea of a &#8220;time out&#8221; is lost on a dog.  You can send a child to their room to think about what they&#8217;ve done because they have a sense of past and future.  &#8220;Time out&#8221; is a pretty abstract concept: the idea that being sent to a certain place = punishment requires one to understand that a)their actions were wrong b)the place they&#8217;ve been sent to is a consequence of their actions.  I don&#8217;t think that dogs can understand either of those ideas.  If you were to send a dog to time out for mouthing, i think that the only lesson she&#8217;s learning is that she can&#8217;t interact with her handler in those moments where she&#8217;s in drive.  Also, the unresolved drive to make contact turns into stress.</p>
<p>Heather, have you considered getting a bite sleeve as an intermediate step to channeling his bite into a tug toy?</p>
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		<title>By: Heather</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1708</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:14:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1708</guid>
		<description>During our playtimes if he gets too rough and grabs me instead of the toy I sometimes ask him to &quot;wait&quot; then release him to play.  If he has just gotten overtired or too excited and I wasn&#039;t catching it, I say &#039;ow&#039; and go inside for a minute then come back and either wind things down or try again.  Other times, which to be honest shouldn&#039;t really occur because he should be in his pen not entertaining himself by mouthing people (but this is where I need to engage in more realistic and less wishful thinking) I just say &quot;OK! go to bed!&quot; in a cheery voice, while walking over to his pen and pointing to the floor.  I reward him for going to bed, which he does very nicely, and if he seems to just really need something to chew on, I give him a new bully stick or a frozen kong.  

He is a great dog, sometimes I think that gets lost in the ruminating I do about things I find unexpected or challenging.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>During our playtimes if he gets too rough and grabs me instead of the toy I sometimes ask him to &#8220;wait&#8221; then release him to play.  If he has just gotten overtired or too excited and I wasn&#8217;t catching it, I say &#8216;ow&#8217; and go inside for a minute then come back and either wind things down or try again.  Other times, which to be honest shouldn&#8217;t really occur because he should be in his pen not entertaining himself by mouthing people (but this is where I need to engage in more realistic and less wishful thinking) I just say &#8220;OK! go to bed!&#8221; in a cheery voice, while walking over to his pen and pointing to the floor.  I reward him for going to bed, which he does very nicely, and if he seems to just really need something to chew on, I give him a new bully stick or a frozen kong.  </p>
<p>He is a great dog, sometimes I think that gets lost in the ruminating I do about things I find unexpected or challenging.</p>
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		<title>By: christine randolph</title>
		<link>http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/why-are-dogs-attracted-to-human-beings/comment-page-1/#comment-1707</link>
		<dc:creator>christine randolph</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:33:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://naturaldogtraining.com/?p=214#comment-1707</guid>
		<description>haha my husband also seems to think also that dogs know when they do a wrong thing, in truth they only respond to his angry body language with some calming signals...

..i used to think dogs do not really like doing certain stuff, they only do it because they want me to give them food and be nice to them...excited about them...not sure any more about that. 

..so I try not to coerce them all that much...
on the other hand they seem to begin to like stuff if it becomes a regular routine 

even if they were merely flummoxed by it in the beginning...

some trainers think that if a dog commences unwanted behaviour, i.e.barking or in your case, biting your arm so that you get bruises... it is ok to put him in the crate for a time-out, without saying anything. each time he offers this behaviour. this seems to signal to the dog, that this behaviour will not lead to more &quot;mom&quot; time and could extinguish it...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>haha my husband also seems to think also that dogs know when they do a wrong thing, in truth they only respond to his angry body language with some calming signals&#8230;</p>
<p>..i used to think dogs do not really like doing certain stuff, they only do it because they want me to give them food and be nice to them&#8230;excited about them&#8230;not sure any more about that. </p>
<p>..so I try not to coerce them all that much&#8230;<br />
on the other hand they seem to begin to like stuff if it becomes a regular routine </p>
<p>even if they were merely flummoxed by it in the beginning&#8230;</p>
<p>some trainers think that if a dog commences unwanted behaviour, i.e.barking or in your case, biting your arm so that you get bruises&#8230; it is ok to put him in the crate for a time-out, without saying anything. each time he offers this behaviour. this seems to signal to the dog, that this behaviour will not lead to more &#8220;mom&#8221; time and could extinguish it&#8230;</p>
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